Well, largely due to the use of mahogany on a pointy headstock design we have a rather sad Jackson here. When it arrived the headstock was still attached … just ... but with a horrible, long splintered break parallel with the bass side of the neck going through the ‘D’ tuning machine hole.
The break may well have to be ‘completed’ to allow a proper gluing surface for the repair. While the head was in one piece(ish) however, I took the opportunity to make up a clamping jig that will keep the pieces aligned and provide a toe-hold for my favourite lever action clamp! A bit of wizardry with my tenon saw and some scrap softwood and ply and we have this:
One ply face is fixed and one tightens down with woodscrews so that it just holds the headstock back and front. One end of the jig presses against the ‘heel’ of the head and the ‘toe’ is a snug fit against the other so that when a clamp is tightened u between the ‘shelf‘ I’ve cut and the bass side of the head (this is a reverse headstock) everything will be forced into line.
The best glue for this job is Titebond … main stay of instrument builders for years. If I’d intended for the joint to be taken apart I’d have used their ready prepared ‘hide glue’ as it can be ‘steamed’ apart quite easily … as it is I want this joint to take the rock and roll lifestyle for many years to come so I will use their ‘original’ aliphatic resin wood glue. This stuff is seriously strong, cleans up with water and sands easily. Never, never, never use either Super Glue type adhesives or PVA wood glue for this sort of job: Super glue is not good on porous materials, and is easily 'jolted' apart by a blow. PVA dries with an 'elastic' consistency and joints under shear force will 'creep' out of alignment over time.
This afternoon I'll jump in and fix the break ... showing you how to stop the head firmly gluing itself to the jig (with a bit of luck!)
Continued here http://theguitarweasel.blogspot.com/2012_02_01_archive.html